Little San Salvador, aka Half Moon Bay

We were apprised by the weather forecasters that we needed a safe harbour with westerly protection, which Cat Island didn't provide. We also needed to apply for an extension with Immigration so it made sense to start the trek to Rock Sound, Eleuthera. 

We didn't want to try to sail the 65 miles to Rock Sound in one day, so we set our sights on Little San Salvador, aka Half Moon Bay. We set out to perfect blue skies, which, as soon as we were sufficiently underway, turned to black death. Discussion ensued. 1. Turn around (pointless to try outrun a storm at 5 knots). 2. Stay on course (close to the reefs and sandbars). 3. Veer off out to sea and away from the reefs. 
Driving through the rain
We veered and put two reefs in the main, which was like pouring oil on troubled waters. The wind died, the storm miraculously dissipated, and we were left crawling along at 3 knots. We weren't anxious to get to Little San Salvador too early, and didn't want to tempt the weather gods by shaking out the sail, so we just moseyed along.
After the rain: blue skies!
We finally arrived, skirted the Carnival Elation cruise ship, anchored, and got out the binoculars to watch the frivolities. I love watching cruise ships and their passengers and their "fake" villages. The whole set-up is fascinating. Cruise ships don't go to already built Bahamian settlements, but buy islands and set up their own shops, restaurants, water sports, etc. It makes sense in a way, but it also seems bizarre and wasteful. They also re-name islands to make them more appealing, so Little San Salvador is termed "Half Moon Bay". So appealing!
Don't worry though, we found a way to have a "real" Bahamian experience: what our chart calls "perpetual surge". For example, I sat in the cabin and watched the Elation completely disappear while we sunk in the ocean of despair. Up surge: Elation! Down surge: Abyss. We were beyond desperate, enjoying this real Bahamian experience, and rigged a swell bridle, which was not swell due to it's failure. We dinghyed the dog to the beach and admired the horse stables, where cruisers would get on the horses, walk into the surf, smile for the camera, and get back off. Total horse experience time: 2.5 minutes. 
Little San Salvador anchorage

Upon departure, we came the closest we have ever come to flipping the dinghy. We were totally swamped by the surf and soaked to the core, but still upright and without any prop scars on our faces. We didn't sleep a wink and couldn't wait to leave at sunrise to head to Rock Sound.  
Our route
Have you ever been on a cruise ship? Did they take you to a private island? 

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  1. I've never been on a cruise ship and probably never will. We did, however, go to the Titanic exhibit at the San Diego Natural History Museum. Does that count? ;-)

    Stephanie @ SV CAMBRIA

    1. Unless you drank 6 alcoholic beverages and did a conga line around it, no, it doesn't count!

  2. Gosh, cruising sure is swell. See what I did there :-)

    1. Yes, it can be swell. Just think, 4 months ago I didn't know about swell, as the US seems to outlaw it!

  3. Having to land the dinghy in surf, sucks. Especially when you have to (for example to let out the dogs), meaning it is unavoidable. We flipped once, in Puerto Rico, after about one year of cruising! Better to do it without the outboard attached, though... :-)

    1. Ugh, I sure hope we can avoid flipping it with the outboard. Yikes. The next morning we left without going ashore and Hastings didn't even mind - I think he knows better than to ask for a rough ride and terror!

  4. I really enjoyed your blog, thanks for sharing.


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