We are a bit behind in blogging, so we thought we'd catch up this week with a trip down memory lane (for us) of our migration south along the ICW. We were in a bit of a rush; we didn't stop to explore many new places or take the time for daily blogging. We were up with the sun and moving every morning and had the goal of the anchor down by 4 o'clock in the afternoon while there was still plenty of light. We stopped for 4 nights in Swansboro, NC where the dock was cheap and the weather was bad. It was a cold trip that had us wishing we'd gone ahead and built a full enclosure! We had a blast, but we're going to try harder next time to avoid schedules.

Not including the four nights in Swansboro, here are some stats from the trip:
Departed Deltaville, VA on Nov 2, arrived Amelia Island, FL on Nov 16.
Days traveling 12
Total miles 707 (statute, because the ICW doesn't make sense that way)
Total gallons of diesel used 84, which was about $200
Best meal: Shrimp and Grits with Gator Sausage gravy in South Carolina, yum!

We had a few foggy mornings, like this one on the Alligator-Pungo River Canal.

Capt. Hastings checking bridge clearances

North Carolina has the BEST sunsets, hands down.

Their sunrises aren't too bad either.

The. Most. Pathetic. Excuse. For. A. Beach. Walk. EVER.

Must still be in North Carolina! Swansboro to be exact.

Walks in Swansboro...fun but cold!

Cute town of Swansboro, our home for four nights. Our address: behind the BP gas station.

Bridge pile-up! Carolina-ers don't really get the whole timed bridge thing...

Anchors down on the NC/SC state line!

South Carolina carrying over a little bit of the NC sunset glory!

Took a walk to the beach at Isle of Palms, South Carolina

Okay, South Carolina can hold their own in the Battle of the Sunsets!

Leaving Charlestown Harbor for sea.

Checklist for a good passage: dolphins on the starboard bow? Check!

Chapter 2: And then it got nautical...messy inlet at St. Mary's River. Yeesh. Where did all this wind come from?

Yep, that's a hasty, messy reef in the mainsail, it must've been nautical out there!

We were super excited to attempt the Dismal Swamp Canal, a beautiful and slow going secondary Intracoastal Waterway route. It had been closed for over a year since being damaged by Hurricane Matthew in October 2016. Hundreds of trees were downed and the canal shoaled to 1 ft depths in some areas.

Portsmouth, VA, being overtaken by the sea

Lots of boat traffic heading south

It was a relief to leave all that traffic and noise behind and turn off into Deep Creek, which leads to Deep Creek Lock and the start of Dismal Swamp Canal. 

Deep Creek

 We arrived at Deep Creek lock at 10:30, ready to lock through at the scheduled 11AM lock. The lock had a power issue and we anchored and waited until 12:15 to finally enter the lock. We totally thought we would be alone of have one other boat with us, but we had 5 other boats join us! 

Deep Creek Lock

Deep Creek Lock

Tending lines

We were raised 8 feet, and set off into 67 billion tons of duck weed. This floating green stuff threatens to clog engines that like clear cooling water and cause engine overheating and shut downs. Immediately, the boat behind us overheated and turned around, ready to lock back through. They headed for Great Bridge lock on the regular route, which then closed due to high water. Boating, it's the worst. 

Deep Creek Bridge

Leaving Deep Creek Bridge

After traveling Deep Creek Bridge, there is a shoal area at MM13, just before the Big Feeder Ditch. It is marked by stakes with "Caution" tape. This was the shallowest area we saw at 7.1 feet.  

Feeder Ditch Shoal area

We were most concerned about the 25 foot wide channel at MM 22, but it was totally fine. 

25 Foot Wide Channel, Dismal Swamp

Watching our mast for overhanging trees

There's plenty to see and do on the Dismal Swamp route - we watched for logs, duck weed, and overhanging trees. We hit a few of each, just for fun. Then, there's the overheated boats to overtake, while they drift in the bushes and clean their intakes. Why do it? Because it's absolutely beautiful! 

Fall Colors

Entering North Carolina, our favorite state!

Not everyone loves the Dismal Swamp. Power boaters don't like the slow speed (we were going at 4 knots). Most boaters are rightly afraid of trees, above and below. Now there are reported shoal areas and engine clogging duck weed, this alternate route seems like too much trouble. The regular route boasts marinas, gas stations, wide canals, and most importantly, a famous restaurant serving 32 ounce prime ribs. Hastings would agree; nature is boring, give him 2 pounds of steak! 

Fall Colors!

Whew! We travelled 28 miles on the first day and were ready for a break. Thankfully, Dismal Swamp Visitor Center has a roadside rest stop for drivers and a canal side dock for weary boaters. We met with our fellow boaters and bemoaned the duck weed. We'd kept passing them, in the bushes, cleaning out huge clumps and cursing. We had barely any - our sail drives are 18 inches below the water line and below the evil stuff. 

Dismal Swamp Visitor Center Dock

 The next day was dreary and overcast, but it was still beautiful.

Leaf Stained Water

Pressing on through the duck weed

Matt at the helm

 We approached South Mills Bridge, ready for their 11AM opening. Here, northbound boaters lock through first. A huge rush of water is forced by us as the lock is filled, causing us all in jostle together in an alarming fashion. Then, the lock tender drives to the bridge and opens it. Southbound boaters head through the bridge, which the tender closes, before driving to the lock, tying us all up, and opening the lock. It's a slow process! The bridge opened at 11:25, and we were out the other side by 12Noon. 

South Mills bridge opens

Hastings finds this boring

Final staked channel just south of South Mills

Dismal Swamp Canal: that's a wrap!

LOG!

Entering the Pasquotank River, red markers should be on the port side for south bound boaters. Usually ICW red markers are on the starboard side... here the ICW is marked by a square sticker on the red marker. It's confusing, but we have to pay attention.....one of our party took the marker on the wrong side and ran aground (he did manage to extricate himself). After surviving all the hazards of the canal, the wide open river is also available to inflict pain and suffering on us poor boaters. 

Red River Marker (looking back)

But wait, our boating troubles aren't over! We have to get through this narrow railroad bridge! 

Narrow railroad bridge, Pasquotank River

Well, it was another long day. We travelled an entire 22 miles and were very grateful for the free docks at MidAtlantic Christian University. Poor Hastings couldn't find a 2 pound steak, though. I think he's still harbouring resentment. 

Free Dockage in Elizabeth City, NC

Tied to a tree, MidAtlantic Christian University

Check out our 5 minute video of the Dismal Swamp Canal Transit:

Starry Night at the Boat Yard Docks (Stingray Point Boat Works, Deltaville, VA) (Friend's boat, ours was still on the hard...)

It seemed like a huge ordeal to leave Deltaville, VA. We were hoping not to haul at all this year, then we decided to fix the emergency hatches, then we realized we needed anti-fouling paint, then we needed to re-haul the saildrives, and while we were doing that, well, we might as well doing 6 weeks of work. Phew! Then the dog got sick, then the weather got bad. Then we broke things on our 2 hour cruise (to cover 1 land mile) from Boat Yard #1 to Boat Yard #2, which just happens to be home to all of Boat Yard #1's workers, and, no kidding, even the same dogs! Guess what, like our friends say, you can check out any time you like, but you can never leave. 

Walking through Colonial Williamsburg

Dog Friendly Table at the DoG (Duke of Gloucester) Pub

Cheese-less house and fence. Boring.

Staring at trees. Seriously, my humans are the worst.

Oh look, leaves on a tree! Oh, the humanity!

A house. Not sure what the food storage situation is here, but it looks like they should have a lot of cheese. Probably hoarding it. Rude.

People here pretend that it's the golden olden days. Probably because there was more cheese back then.

Be still my beating heart, it's another tree!

More people wishing for the days when cheese grew on trees.

Colonial Williamsburg

You guessed it, a cheese-less tree.

A lighted tree so you see how there's no cheese, again.

Other than the disturbing lack of cheese, everyone loved Williamsburg.
P.S. There's a Trader Joe's here, and it sells cheese!

What about the golden olden days do you miss? Do you long for warm winters so you can get out of bed in the morning?